Effortless elegance. That is the feeling I always want to offer when I serve people that I love something sweet. Pan di Spagna is a simple Italian sponge cake that is versatile and the backdrop for my now infamous 36-inch diameter wedding cake coated with pistachios and topped with red fruit. For an autumnal spin, this pan di spagna is bursting with date purée, praline paste, whipped mascarpone cream, and delicious fall pears poached in Concord grape juice.
For the Pan di Spagna
Ingredients
- 6 eggs, preferably pasture raised, at room temperature
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
- 2 teaspoons of vanilla extract
- 1 tablespoon orange juice
- 1 teaspoon orange zest
- 1½ cups cake flour
- ½ teaspoon fine sea salt
- ¼ teaspoon baking powder
Method
- Preheat oven to 325°F convection, or 350°F if you do not have a convection setting. Line a 10-inch springform pan with parchment and spray with cooking spray.
- In a heatproof bowl sitting over a pot of gently simmering water, combine the eggs and sugar and whisk until the sugar dissolves and the mixture becomes foamy; do not allow the mixture to get too hot. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and whisk on medium speed until it reaches full volume (that’s when the foamy mixture stops climbing on its journey to the top of the bowl) about 8-10 minutes.
- Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the melted butter, vanilla, orange zest and juice. Using the whisk from the mixer or a large spatula, gently fold the butter mixture into the egg foam.
- Sift the flour, salt and baking powder together. Gently sift the flour mixture, a second time, over the egg foam and fold in carefully so as not to deflate the foam; carefully pour the batter into the springform pan. Bake, rotating the pan halfway through baking, until golden and cooked through, about 35 minutes. Allow the cake to cool on a wire rack before unmolding.
For the Mascarpone Cream
Ingredients
- 8 ounces mascarpone
- 8 ounces heavy cream
- ½ teaspoon orange zest
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 2 tablespoons sugar
- 3 tablespoons praline paste
Method
- In the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, place the mascarpone cheese and the cream. Whip on low to prevent clumping; when combined, add the orange zest, vanilla and confectioner’s sugar and continue to whip until thick and stiff peaks are formed. Roughly fold in the praline paste leaving it in visible streaks throughout the cream. Store in the refrigerator until ready to use.
For the Poached Pears
Ingredients
- ¾ cup granulated sugar
- ½ cup Concord grape juice
- 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
- 1 teaspoon lemon zest
- 3 Bartlett pears, ripe, peeled and cut in half
- Lemon concord poaching liquid
Method
- In a medium saucepan, combine the juice, sugar and lemon zest and warm over medium heat to dissolve the sugar. Whisk in the lemon juice and bring to a simmer. Add the ripe pears and simmer gently until tender, about 5 minutes, depending on ripeness. Remove from the heat and allow the pears to cool, they will continue to slow poach while cooling. Store in the fridge until ready to use.
For the Praline Paste
Ingredients
- 12 ounces raw hazelnuts, skin on
- 1½ cups granulated cane sugar
- ½ teaspoon Maldon salt
- ¼ tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
Method
I love making my own praline paste. I think that it is one of my favorite condiments of sorts in the sweet world and a minimal labor of love to produce. A good slow roast of hazelnuts ensuring a deep even brown and an eye for a dangerously dark caramel is the secret to a great praline paste.
- Preheat oven to 300°F convection.
- Place hazelnuts in a single layer on a sheet tray and toast in oven slowly, tossing every 4-5 minutes until golden brown throughout. Remove hazelnuts from the oven and using rubber gloves, rub nuts between your hands to remove skins and discard. Roughly chop the hazelnuts.
- Meanwhile, heat a small heavy-bottomed saucepan that is wiped clean, over medium-high heat. When hot, add a tablespoon of sugar from the measured 140 grams; using a heat proof spatula, swirl and stir the sugar until it melts. Continue to do this slowly, making sure that each tablespoon of sugar melts before adding more. Cook the caramel until it is dark amber, just before it burns. Immediately add the still warm, chopped hazelnuts, stirring; immediately scrape the entire mixture out onto a greased parchment sheet. Allow the caramel to cool and harden into a brittle.
- Break up the brittle into small pieces and place in the bowl of a food processor. Process to grind the brittle, scraping the sides periodically, until it turns into a liquid-like paste, about 5 minutes.
For the Date Purée
Ingredients
- 8 ounces Medjool dates, pitted
- 1 cup water
- 1 teaspoon Ceylon cinnamon
- ½ teaspoon orange blossom water
- ½ teaspoon orange zest
Method
- Pour some boiling water over the dates to loosen the thick skin; drain and peel the hard-outer skin; discard. Place the dates in a blender; add the scant cup of water, cinnamon, orange blossom water, and orange zest. Blend until smooth and set aside to cool.
To Assemble Cake
Ingredients
- 1 Pan di Spagna cake
- ¾ cup date purée
- ¾ cup praline paste
- Lemon concord syrup, reserved from poaching the pears
- 3 poached pears
- 1 cup cocoa powder ground with dark chocolate
- 1 batch Mascarpone Cream
Method
- Cut the cake in half using a long, serrated knife. Generously brush both sides of the cake with the syrup. Spread a thin layer of praline paste, then date purée over the bottom half of the cake. Spread 1 cup of the Mascarpone Cream swirled with additional praline paste over the purée. Set the top layer of the cake on top. Spread the remaining mascarpone cream over the top and sides of the cake. Coat the sides of the cake with the ground cocoa-chocolate mixture.
- Pat the pears dry; using a teaspoon measurer, scoop out the core before slicing the purple pears to reveal a buttery white interior; slice thinly and carefully arrange them over the top of the cake completely covering the surface, the less cream in sight the better! Refrigerate the cake until ready to serve.
Jacques is the epitome of style and elegance, honoring simple things made very well. I am grateful to have learned this value in food and cooking from Jacques. If you want to keep things simple, I suggest the cake paired with the mascarpone cream.