Although the fatty pork jowl is the preferred choice for sisig, pork belly, a fattier portion of the butt, or a combination of lean pork butt and fatback could be substituted.
Black Sisig
Ingredients
- 1 pound pork jowl, cut into ½-inch pieces
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 slice fresh ginger
- ½ cup water
- Salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 1 medium onion, finely chopped
- 4 garlic cloves, smashed and coarsely chopped
- ¼ cup corn kernels
- 1 to 3 green bird’s eye chilies, thinly sliced lengthwise
- 1 tablespoon soy sauce, preferably light soy sauce
- ½ pound fresh or frozen corn mushrooms, coarsely chopped (see note below)
- 3 tablespoons calamansi juice, lime juice, or vinegar (see note)
- 2 large eggs
Method
- To make the sisig, place the chopped pork, bay leaf, and ginger slice in a cast-iron skillet. Pour in the water and season lightly with salt and pepper. Set the skillet over high heat, cover, and bring to a boil until the water has completely evaporated and the pork has completely rendered its fat, about 5 minutes. Discard the bay leaf and ginger from the skillet.
- Lower the heat to medium and continue to cook the pork, sautéing it in its own fat, stirring often, until completely browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the crispy pork jowl cracklings from the skillet to a bowl, reserving the fat in the skillet. Add the onion and garlic to the skillet and sauté until softened, but not browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in the corn kernels, stirring continuously until they have softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the chilies and sauté until tender, 1 to 2 minutes more.
- Return the pork cracklings to the skillet, and stir in the soy sauce and corn mushrooms. Simmer, stirring occasionally, or until the mushrooms have released their black ink and completely colored the pork cracklings, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour in the calamansi juice and simmer for a minute. Remove the skillet from heat, but keep in a warm place.
- To make the garlic chips and the fried rice. Pour the oil into a wok set over high heat. Add the garlic slices, and stirring constantly, fry until golden brown and crispy, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the fried garlic and set aside for garnish.
- Add the chopped garlic to the same oil and sauté, being careful not to burn, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the rice and fry, constantly stirring and breaking the rice grains with a wok spatula, until the rice grains have completely separated and the mixture is warmed through, 8 to 10 minutes. Spoon the fried rice into a cup and invert onto the plates.
- Return the skillet with the pork mixture to high heat. With a large spoon, create two wells in the mixture. Crack an egg into each and cook until the egg whites have just set, but the yolks are still runny, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a spatula, break the eggs and str into the mixture creating a sauce with the residual heat. Serve the sisig immediately with the fried rice to the side and the garlic chips sprinkled on top.
Garlic Chips and Garlic Fried Rice
Ingredients
- 3 tablespoons vegetable or corn oil
- 2 large garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
- ⅓ cup chopped garlic cloves
- 4 cups leftover rice
- Salt
Originating in the Philippine province of Pampanga, north of Manila, sisig means “to sour” in the provincial dialect. Historically, sisigs were local vegetarian salads. When American kitchen personnel stationed in military bases discarded pork parts, locals used them in their cooking. Nowadays the sisig found in restaurants and households has evolved into a sizzling stir-fried hash of fatty pork jowl (or cheeks), onions, garlic, and chilies. My version of this quintessential Filipino comfort food is an homage to the totality of Jacques Pépin’s culinary philosophy, from his advocacy of cuisine economique to his love of eggs. I have added two personal twists. First, the incorporation of fresh corn mushrooms because Jacques loves mushrooms, and second serving a side of garlic fried rice to show how plain leftover steamed rice can elevate the sisig into a memorable Filipino meal.