In France they celebrate the holidays with a bûche de noël, and this is my version of Jacques’ recipe. It’s one of my favorites. Light, chocolatey sponge rolled around a crème anglaise buttercream coated with a rich, 63 percent chocolate ganache.

Bûche de Noël

For the Bûche de Noël

Ingredients

  • Chocolate Sponge Cake, recipe follows
  • Crème Anglaise Bourbon Buttercream, recipe follows
  • Chocolate Ganache, recipe follows
  • Meringue mushrooms, for garnish, optional
  • ½ cup raspberries, for garnish, optional
  • Mint sprigs, for garnish, for garnish, optional

Method

  1. Remove the cake from the pan and let it cool to room temperature. Do not remove the parchment paper. Using a spatula, carefully spread the buttercream over the cake in an even layer. Grab the corners of the parchment paper on one side and begin to roll the cake onto itself, using the parchment to keep it tight. Roll the cake all the way and carefully remove the parchment paper. Then, carefully transfer the roll to the back of the sheet pan or to a platter seam side down. Let set, covered, in the refrigerator.
  2. To shape the log: Cut the end of the cake on a diagonal. Attach the cut piece to the side of the cake to simulate a branch. Cut the other end and set on top to make a split log shape. Return to the refrigerator for about 30 minutes.
  3. To finish the log: Fill a piping bag, fitted with a flat pastry tip, with the ganache. If you don’t have a piping tip, you can cut off the end of the piping bag with scissors. Pipe a little ganache on the cut side of the logs to secure them in place and then pipe the ganache across the log in a bark-like fashion, covering the log completely while leaving the one cut edge exposed to reveal the roll. If you want more defined detail, you can run a fork along the ganache to simulate the bark of a tree. Garnish with meringue mushrooms, raspberries and mint sprigs.

For the Chocolate Sponge Cake

Ingredients

  • 8 large eggs, separated
  • ⅔ cup sugar
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • ⅔ cup all-purpose flour
  • ¼ cup cocoa powder
  • ¼ cup vegetable oil

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
  2. Line a half sheet pan, 16 by 12 inches, with buttered parchment paper. To line the pan, fold a sheet of parchment paper, approximately 18 by 14 inches, in four and, using a sharp knife make a cut, diagonally, into the corner. Open the parchment paper and set it on the counter. Generously butter one half of the parchment paper. Refold the parchment in half, pressing the two sheets together so the butter covers the whole sheet. Set the parchment, butter-side down in the baking sheet, pressing it down so that the butter covers the pan. Remove the parchment and flip it so that the butter side is facing up. Replace the parchment in the pan, unbuttered-side down, making sure that it reaches into and extends through the corners.
  3. In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, salt and vanilla extract until the mixture is pale yellow, light and fluffy. Add the flour, cocoa powder and oil and whisk until fully incorporated.
  4. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites until they reach soft peaks. Pour the egg yolk mixture on top of the whites and gently fold to retain most of the volume. Fold until the mixture is smooth and no streaks of egg white remain.
  5. Pour the cake batter into the prepared pan, spreading it into an even layer. Tap gently to remove any air bubbles. Bake until the cake is set and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean, 12 to 14 minutes. Remove the cake from the oven and set aside to cool to room temperature. The cake will be puffy when you pull it out of the oven but will deflate slightly while cooling.

For the Crème Anglaise Bourbon Buttercream

Ingredients

  • 3 egg yolks
  • 1 cup milk
  • ⅓ cup sugar
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt
  • ¼ cup heavy cream
  • 2 teaspoons Bourbon, optional
  • 3 sticks unsalted butter

Method

  1. Place the milk into a small pot and bring to a boil. While the milk is heating, whisk the egg yolks, sugar, vanilla and salt until the mixture is pale yellow, light and fluffy. Once the milk has come to a boil, gently drizzle the milk into the yolk mixture slowly while whisking constantly to temper the eggs.
  2. Fill the pot used to heat the milk with about 2 inches of water and place back on the stove over medium heat to make a double boiler. Set the bowl with the custard on the pot and gently stir or whisk the egg yolk mixture constantly until it thickens, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour in the heavy cream and a splash of Bourbon. Let cool to room temperature.
  3. Place the butter into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and whip until it is light and fluffy. Reduce the mixer speed to low and gently pour the custard into the bowl and mix until it is incorporated, scraping down the sides occasionally. Set aside.

For the Ganache

Ingredients

  • 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate 63%
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • ¼ cup light corn syrup
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon Bourbon, optional

Method

  1. Set a medium bowl with the chocolate over a pot of water to make a double boiler over medium heat. When the chocolate is melted, remove it from the heat and whisk in the cream, corn syrup, salt and optional Bourbon. Let cool a little.