Mousse from different proteins, like chicken or shellfish, is used a lot at Per Se and we have refined it in so many ways. Mousse allows us to shape proteins into beautiful presentations and adds a layer of flavor and texture. These crêpes are slightly modified using tapioca starch so that when fried, they provide some additional texture.
For the Tapioca Chive Crêpes
Ingredients
- ¼ cup all-purpose flour
- 2 cups tapioca starch
- 2 whole eggs
- ½ cup half and half
- 1½ cups water
- ½ cup chopped chives
Method
- In a medium bowl, whisk the all-purpose and tapioca flours together. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs and half and half together. Slowly add the flours to the egg mixture, whisking them together in small increments to prevent clumping. Slowly add the water in a stream to make a very loose batter. Season with salt and add the chives.
- Heat an 8-inch nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat. Spray the pan with non-stick pan spray.
- Stir the crêpe mixture thoroughly before every ladle. Using a 1-ounce ladle, pour the crêpe batter into the center of the pan, off the heat. Swirl the pan so that the mixture coats the bottom of the pan evenly—this might take a few tries. Return the pan to the heat and cook the crêpe until the edges start to crinkle and fold, about 2 minutes. Flip the crêpe and cook another 2 minutes. Transfer each crêpe to a plate. The crêpes can be stacked and stored, wrapped, in the refrigerator until you are ready to fill them.
For the Shrimp Mousse
Ingredients
- 1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
- 1 whole egg
- 1½ cups heavy cream
- 1 tablespoon oyster sauce
- 1½ tablespoons sesame oil
- 2 tablespoons sesame seed
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
Method
- Combine the shrimp and egg in the bowl of a food processor. Process until smooth. Add the sesame oil and oyster sauce and process, scraping down the sides of the bowl every time you purée. With the processor running, slowly pour the cream in a steady stream. After half of the cream is added, scrape down the sides and continue emulsifying. When everything is emulsified, it will be a thick, pillowy consistency. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and fold in the chopped scallions and sesame seed. Keep chilled.
For the Charred Shishito Mayonnaise
Ingredients
- 15 shishito peppers, stems removed
- 2 scallions
- 1 whole egg
- 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
- Kosher salt
- Lemon juice
- 1½ cups canola oil
Method
- Heat a cast iron pan over high heat; add the peppers and scallions in the pan and press or weigh down with another pan on top. Cook until one side of the peppers and scallions are charred dark brown or black, about 3 minutes. Flip the vegetables over; cover again with pan to weigh down and cook until charred, set aside to cool.
- Transfer the peppers and scallions to a blender; add the egg, mustard, salt and lemon juice and blend until smooth. With the blender running on a low speed, drizzle in the canola oil until the mixture is emulsified. Taste and adjust seasoning.
To Serve
Ingredients
- Canola oil, for frying
- Toasted sesame seed
Method
- Heat a deep pot filled with 4 to 5 inches of oil, over medium-high heat, to 325°F.
- Spread the mousse on top of each crêpe in a thin layer and roll to make a long cylinder. Once all the crêpes are rolled, gently lower the crêpes into the hot oil, two or three at a time. The crêpes will puff up slightly as they cook, about 4 minutes. Gently turn each rolled crêpe in the oil and check for doneness by piercing with a small knife. If it pokes through and there’s nothing on the knife, the mousse is cooked; if there is smudge from raw mousse, it needs a few minutes more.
- To plate: spoon a dollop of shishito mayonnaise in the center of each plate. Trim the sides of the crêpe to make an even cylinder. The ends that are cut off are treats for the chef! Place in center of the mayonnaise. Sprinkle with additional toasted sesame seeds and serve.
I used to make scallion crêpes when I was a young commis. They were hard to make, so I watched Jacques on TV, and he helped me master the technique. Combined with a refined version of my grandmother’s fish mousse, this dish is an ode to my mentors. It combines techniques and inspiration drawing on my classical training and childhood memories.