This recipe pays homage to Jacques’ time working at Howard Johnson’s, where he transformed their menu and introduced this dish, which became an instant classic. I, too, worked at Howard Johnson’s as a teenager in Lake Worth, Florida, where I am pretty sure I made his fried clams. In our interpretation, we use razor clams for flavor and texture and a remoulade for dipping. Don’t forget the parsley garnish!

Fried Razor Clams with Remoulade Sauce

Recipe details

Serves

2-4

For the Remoulade

Ingredients

  • 2 egg yolks (reserve the whites for the clams)
  • 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 cup grapeseed or vegetable oil with a neutral flavor
  • 2 tablespoons cornichons, finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed, drained, finely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon shallot, finely chopped
  • 3 tablespoons, parsley, minced

Method

  1. Combine the yolks, mustard, lemon juice and salt in a small mixing bowl and whisk together. While whisking vigorously, simultaneously drizzle the grapeseed oil to form a thick emulsion. You may adjust the rate of the oil addition to prevent the emulsion from breaking. If you do happen to break the emulsion or the mixture looks oily rather than creamy and pale yellow, you may add a tablespoon of cold water and whisk briskly to bring the mixture back. Whisk in the cornichons, capers, shallot, and parsley. This sauce may be prepared a day in advance and be stored refrigerated in a sealed container.

For the Clams

Ingredients

  • 1 pound razor clam meat, split, trimmed and lightly pounded with meat mallet
  • Cornstarch for dredging, as needed
  • 4 egg whites
  • ⅓ cup cornstarch
  • Panko breadcrumbs, as needed
  • 6 cups grapeseed oil or other vegetable oil with a high smoke point
  • Kosher salt, finely ground in mortar and pestle
  • Lemon wedges, to serve

Method

  1. Rinse the razor clam meat under cold running water, drain and pat dry with paper towels. Trim away any discolored or frayed pieces of meat. Split the clam down the center lengthwise. Lay the clam flat between two sheets of plastic wrap and gently pound with a meat mallet to tenderize the meat.
  2. While preparing the clams for frying, begin heating the oil. In a deep, heavy bottomed sauce pot, (about 4 quarts which is at least twice as deep as the depth of the oil). Heat the oil slowly, over medium-low heat to 350°F. Once this temperature is reached, reduce your stove to stabilize and maintain it. Take safety precautions by turning the handle inward and removing any obstructions or hazards.
  3. Collect 3 shallow mixing bowls. Place about a cup of the unmeasured cornstarch in one of the bowls and about 2 cups of the panko in the other. In the remaining bowl, add the egg whites then whisk in ⅓ cup (55 grams) of cornstarch. Whisk until the mixture is smooth and lump-free.
  4. Working in small batches, dredge the clams in the dry cornstarch to evenly coat them, shaking off any excess; set the dredged clams in a single layer on a plate or tray. Again, working in small batches, place the clams in the egg white slurry until they are completely coated.
  5. Remove one clam at a time and allow it to hang vertically so that any excess slurry drips off, then transfer it to the bowl of panko. A pair of small tweezers is helpful in performing this step. Gently toss the clams in the panko and lightly press the panko so that it adheres well to the clam.
  6. Once the clam is coated, transfer it to a baking sheet or plate and arrange the clam so that it is straight. Set all the clams down in a single layer and separated so that they are not touching. The clams may be breaded up to one hour in advance and stored uncovered in the refrigerator.
  7. To fry the clams, carefully slip the clams into the hot oil making sure that the clam falls away from you to avoid being splashed with hot oil. Again, a pair tweezers or small tongs are helpful here. When frying the clams, take care not to overcrowd the oil. It is best to fry in small batches. Overcrowding will drop the oil temperature and result in uneven color, sogginess and oily fried clams.
  8. Once the clams are golden brown in color, use a slotted spoon or skimmer, carefully remove them from the oil and let the excess oil drain. Transfer to a sheet pan fitted with a wire rack in a single layer to keep them crisp. If you do not have a wire rack, drain the clams on paper towels but keep them in a single layer.
  9. Season the clams lightly with the finely ground salt.