At the point in my career when I wanted to learn French cuisine, I took a trip to Lyon in the southeast portion of France. Lyon, traditionally was the crossroads of multiple cultures traveling to the Mediterranean Sea, and is also the birthplace of some of the greatest chefs, including Jacques Pépin. To honor that I chose this Lyonnaise-style dish.

Quenelles à la Lyonnaise

Category

Category name

Serves

4 to 6

For the Pâte à Choux

Ingredients

  • 1 ¼ cups water
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 3 large eggs

Method

  1. In a medium saucepan bring the water, butter and salt to a boil. When the butter has melted, lower the heat to medium-low, add the flour all at once and, using a wooden spoon, stir vigorously until the flour is incorporated and a smooth dough forms. Continue stirring vigorously over the heat until the dough stiffens a bit and a thin, film forms on the bottom of the pan. The finished dough should be pliable to the touch without leaving too much moisture on the hands. Cover the dough and let cool for 5 to 10 minutes.
  2. Transfer the dough to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Starting on low to medium speed, add in the eggs, one at a time, beating to incorporate each egg before adding the next. Transfer the finished dough to a container, cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

For the Mornay Sauce

Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 1 cup combined grated parmesan, Gruyère, and fontina cheese
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
  • Freshly ground white pepper, optional

Method

  1. In a medium saucepan melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour, stirring until smooth to make a roux. Continue to cook until it is a golden straw color, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the milk in a steady stream, whisking until the sauce comes to a boil and thickens. Continue to cook the sauce for 2 minutes then remove from the heat and whisk in the cheese, salt and the sherry vinegar. Transfer to a wide flat container, cover by pressing plastic wrap directly on the surface of the sauce.

For the Quenelles

Ingredients

  • 1 pound cod or other firm white fish, trimmed, cut into 2-inch squares
  • 8 ounces Pâte à Choux (from above)
  • 3 egg whites

Method

  1. In the bowl of a food processor, process the fish until it is a very smooth puree. Add the pâte à choux and process again. With the motor running drizzle in the egg whites and continue to process, scraping down the sides, until the mixture is combined. If you want to ensure a very fine quenelle you can pass the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve or a tamis.

For Serving

Ingredients

  • Quenelles (from above)
  • Mornay Sauce (from above)
  • 1 teaspoon toasted coriander seed, ground
  • Parmesan cheese, for grating
  • Sprigs of cilantro

Method

  1. Bring a large saucepan or shallow sauté pan of salted water to a boil, reduce to a simmer.
  2. Using two spoons, shape the cod mixture into quenelles (small football or oblong-sphere shaped dumplings) and drop them into the simmering water. Cook gently until they are cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes. You can also fill a piping bag with the mixture and cut the dumplings directly into the simmering water.
  3. While the quenelles are cooking, preheat the broiler to high. In a shallow skillet, reheat the mornay sauce adding a little water to keep it from burning and thin if necessary, stirring in the ground coriander and salt to taste.
  4. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked quenelles to the mornay sauce. Spoon some to the sauce over each quenelle. Broil until the top is a rich golden brown, about 2 minutes, keeping a watchful eye so as not to burn.
  5. To serve, spoon the sauced quenelles onto plates, sprinkle with freshly grated parmesan and sprigs of cilantro.  If you want more surface color, you can use a torch to toast the grated cheese before adding the cilantro sprigs and serving.