To Cook the Clams & Make the Chowder
Ingredients
For the Clams
- 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil
- 12 littleneck clams, about 1 pound
- 1 large shallot, minced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 cup dry white wine
- 6 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley
- 6 sprigs of thyme
For the Chowder
- 8 ounces slab bacon, cut into 1-inch dice
- 2 carrots, cut into small dice
- 3 celery stalks, diced
- 1 large yellow onion, diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- Reserved clam juice
- 1 ½ quarts fish fumet, recipe follows
- 2 medium white potatoes, peeled and cut into small diced
- 8 ounces firm white fish, cut into 1-inch cubes
- 8 ounces salmon, cut into 1-inch cubes
- 1 ½ cups heavy cream
- Generous pinch salt
- 1 bay leaf
- Generous pinch freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
- 1 tablespoon minced parsley
- Freshly squeezed lemon juice, optional
Method
To Cook the Clams
- Heat a large saucepan with a tight-fitting lid or Dutch oven, over high heat. When it is super-hot, add the oil, followed by the clams, shallot, garlic and wine. Immediately cover and shake the pan vigorously, for about 2 minutes. Add the herbs, and more wine if needed, and continue shaking, covered, until the clams have opened, about 1 minute. Strain the clams through a chinois or fine-mesh strainer, reserving both the clams and the juice.
- When the clams are cool enough to handle, remove the meat and discard the shells.
To Make the Chowder
- Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and sauté, stirring until the fat is rendered and the bacon is crispy, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the carrots, celery onion and sauté over medium heat until translucent and soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for about 30 seconds more until fragrant. Add the butter and sprinkle in the flour, stirring to make a roux. Cook the roux, stirring, until it is straw colored, about 2 minutes. Pour in the clam juice and fish fumet, stirring until the chowder has thickened slightly. Add the potatoes, reduce the heat to low and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 5 minutes depending on their size. Stir in the fish, cream, salt, bay leaf, pepper, thyme and parsley. Adjust the heat and simmer very gently just until the fish is cooked through, 10 to 20 minutes. Stir in the clams, taste again and add more salt and lemon juice if needed. Divide among deep bowls and serve.
For the Fish Fumet
Ingredients
- 2 pounds white fish bones, cut into large pieces
- 1 piece celery root about the same size as the carrot or
- 2 celery stalks
- 2 large onions, cut into 1-inch cubes
- 1 large carrot cut into 1-inch slices
- 1 head garlic, cut in half horizontally
- 2 quarts water
- 3 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley
- 3 sprigs of thyme
- 1 bay leaf
- ½ teaspoon black peppercorns
- ½ to 1 cup dry white wine, optional
Method
In a large stock pot or rondeaux combine the bones, celery root, onions, carrots, garlic and water. There should be enough water to cover the fumet ingredients. Add the herbs and wine and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface, until all of the flavor has been extracted, about 40 minutes. Strain through a chinois or fine-mesh strainer. Use immediately or pour into containers with tight fitting lids and store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Freeze for up to 3 months.
I’m a classically trained chef who worked in fine-dining restaurants before founding EDWINS culinary and hospitality training program for the previously incarcerated. We teach classically French technique and are grateful for the support of the Jacques Pépin Foundation. I met Jacques for the first time this year and he was kind, polite, and made everyone in the room, including me, feel so comfortable. I want to share my seafood chowder recipe, originally made with Chef Charlie Trotter, with him. I know he enjoys seafood of all kinds and to me this chowder exemplifies finesse and restraint, which reminds me of Jacques. Bon Appetit!