The first time I ever learned that you could blanch and shock basil before turning it into a pesto was from watching Jacques Pépin make Spaghetti with Basil Pesto on his American Masters PBS series. He also added a jalapeño and some pumpkin seeds, which was very exciting for a kid who only knew one way to make pesto. So here is my riff on his pesto, made vegan through the use of miso paste, and tossed with nutty, nutrient-dense buckwheat soba. You can also add 2 garlic cloves to the pesto. The roasted mushrooms help round out the umami… fun times!

Soba with Miso Pesto and Roasted Oyster Mushrooms

Category

Category name

Serves

4

Shichimi togarashi is a mixture of spices. Sometimes called 7-spice, it typically includes yuzu, ginger, red chili powder, seaweed, black and white sesame seeds and sansho (Japanese cardamom). However, there are many different blends that could include black pepper, poppy or other seeds.

Ingredients

  • 1 pound oyster mushrooms, trimmed of tough stems
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • Salt
  • 1 teaspoon shichimi or a pinch of crushed red chili flakes

For the Pesto

  • 4 cups lightly packed basil leaves or 1 (4-ounce) container of basil
  • 2 tablespoons white miso paste
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon tamari or soy sauce
  • ½ serrano chili, seeds removed
  • ⅓ cup roasted, unsalted almonds
  • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 ice cubes, optional
  • 4 (3-ounce) bundles of dried soba noodles
  • 1 lemon or lime, for serving

Method

  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
  2. In a medium bowl, toss the mushrooms with the olive oil, a generous pinch of salt and shichimi. Spread them in an even layer on the lined baking sheet. Roast until cooked through, tender and beginning to crisp without drying out, 15 to 20 minutes. Give them a taste and season with more salt if needed.
  3. To make the pesto, fill a medium bowl with ice water. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. (This same water will be used to cook the noodles later.) Set a wire mesh strainer in the boiling water; drop in the basil leaves, making sure that they are submerged, and blanch for about 10 seconds. Immediately lift the leaves in the strainer and plunge them into the ice water. Agitate them so that they are fully shocked and cold. Drain and gently squeeze out the excess water.
  4. In the cup of a blender, combine the basil leaves, miso, lemon juice, tamari, serrano, almonds, olive oil and a few twists of pepper. Blend until smooth. If the mixture is too thick you can add an ice cube or two and blend again. Pour the pesto into a large bowl. You can make the pesto in advance and store it in an airtight jar or container in the refrigerator for up to one week or frozen for up to 3 months.
  5. Return the water to a boil. Add the soba noodles and cook according to the package directions. Reserve a cup of the soba cooking water. Drain the noodles and add them to the bowl with the pesto, tossing well to coat. If the pesto is too thick add a splash or two of the reserved cooking water. Season with salt as needed.
  6. Divide the noodles between four warm bowls and top with the crispy mushrooms. Finish with a squeeze of lemon and serve immediately.