To make the pea puree, bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Blanch frozen peas until just tender. Drain and transfer to a blender and pulse, adding a little milk as needed to blend to a smooth, pourable puree. Alternatively, when available, I like to use fresh, cooked and puréed English peas.
Sweet Pea Genoise
Ingredients
- ½ cup cake flour
- ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons pea puree
- 5 large eggs, separated
- ¼ cup + 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
- 2 ½ tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled
- 2 ½ tablespoons avocado oil, or another neutral oil
- ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
- ½ teaspoon white wine vinegar
Method
- For the genoise, preheat the oven to 300°F.
- Line a baking sheet with sides (ideally a 13-by 17-inch, half sheet pan) with parchment paper. Lightly brush the parchment and the sides of the pan with butter or oil so that nothing sticks.
- In a large bowl, whisk the cake flour and pea puree together util smooth. While whisking add the melted butter, followed by the salt, continuing to whisk until smooth.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer, fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites and vinegar until foamy. Slowly rain (stream) in the sugar and keep whipping until you reach glossy and cloud-like medium peaks.
- Take about one-third of the whipped whites and fold them into the pea mixture to loosen things up. Add half of the remaining whites and gently fold in, then gently fold in the remaining whites.
- Spread the genoise batter evenly in the prepared pan, being sure to reach the corners. Tap on the work surface a couple times to remove any air bubbles. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until it’s golden on top and springs back when lightly touched.
- Let the cake cool in the pan for about 10 minutes. Run a small spatula or knife around the edges and lift from the pan. Lightly spray or oil another piece of parchment paper and lay it against the top of the genoise. Flip the cake over and carefully peel off the baking paper. Lay the paper back on the cake and flip the cake over to be faceup again. Let the cake cool completely (do not roll while warm), about 1 hour.
- Meanwhile, as the cake is baking and cooling, make the rhubarb curd. Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap.
- Put the rhubarb, water, and sugar in the jug of a blender. In a separate small bowl, stir together the cornstarch and the pectin. Blend the rhubarb until it’s silky smooth, and then with the blender running, stream in the cornstarch-pectin mixture.
- Pour that mixture into a saucepan and let it simmer gently, whisking occasionally to keep from sticking, until thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the coconut oil. Spread on the pan lined with plastic wrap, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until completely cooled, at least 30 minutes.
- To assemble, spread about half of the rhubarb curd evenly across the surface of the genoise. The remaining curd will be delicious in another application, like spreading on toast instead of jam.
- Starting with one of the shorter ends, begin to roll up the cake, using the parchment to help compact and roll the cake into a log with a spiral. Take your time to work evenly. This will help with the beautiful cross-section when the cake is cut.
- To make the whipped crème fraîche. Pour the cold crème fraîche and sugar, if using, into a mixing bowl. Using a whisk or hand mixer, whip until it thickens and holds soft peaks. It will be luscious and billowy, not stiff like a buttercream. Keep an eye on it; crème fraîche whips fast and can go from perfect to overwhipped before you know it.
- Trim the ends from the Spring log. Cut the log into slices on a slight diagonal and arrange on a serving platter. Spoon a dollop of whipped crème fraiche on each slice and top with some sorrel, if using.
Rhubarb Curd
Ingredients
- 6 cups chopped rhubarb
- ⅔ cup (150 grams) water
- 1⅓ cups granulated sugar
- 1 ½ tablespoons cornstarch
- 2½ tablespoons apple pectin
- 5 tablespoons coconut oil
Method
Whipped Crème Fraîche
Ingredients
- 1 cup crème fraîche, very cold
- 2 to 3 teaspoons powdered sugar, optional
Method
Ingredients
- Red veined sorrel leaves or pea shoots, for garnish, optional
This dessert is literally, springtime rolled up in a cake. My tart and tangy rhubarb curd is spread across a tender sweet pea – yes frozen or fresh English peas are added to the sponge batter (see top note) for a wonderful gentle hint of fresh, green sweetness. The sponge cake is rolled up, cut into slices and topped with whipped crème fraîche. If you can’t find fresh rhubarb, frozen works well.